“White Horses”

Abstract

THE behaviour of secondary waves riding on the larger primary ones does not seem to have been taken into account in the theory of wind–formed sea waves. From the geometry of trochoids, surface water particles at the troughs on either side of the crest of a secondary wave will close up when this wave is riding on the crest of a primary one, and open out at its trough. The energy of the secondary wave will squeeze up and disperse accordingly; and height, and so steepness, will be affected not only on that account, but also because the relationship of height to energy will change owing to the vertical acceleration of the water caused by the primary wave.