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Field Observations of Edge Waves

Abstract

EDGE waves are solutions for wave motion trapped against a shoaling beach. Their amplitude varies sinusoidally along the shore and diminishes rapidly seawards from the shoreline. Eckart1 has shown that there is a family of edge wave solutions of the shallow water equations. Each solution is characterized by a mode number which gives the number of zero crossings in the seaward decay of amplitude; each mode has a dispersion relation linking the longshore wavenumber with the edge wave frequency.

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References

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HUNTLEY, D., BOWEN, A. Field Observations of Edge Waves. Nature 243, 160–162 (1973). https://doi.org/10.1038/243160a0

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