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Study of Ocean Swell

Abstract

THE apparatus for the analysis of waves already described in Nature1 has been used to form spectra of a long series of wave observations made at Pendeen and Perranporth on the north-west Cornish coast.

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  1. Nature, 158, 329 (1946).

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BARBER, N., URSELL, F. Study of Ocean Swell. Nature 159, 205 (1947). https://doi.org/10.1038/159205b0

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