Cosmetics use in the North China Plain of Han Dynasty: a case study from Kongwangshan site

Abstract

During the Han Dynasty, cosmetic production flourished, as evidenced by archeological discoveries of numerous lacquer toiletry cases across China. However, the use of cosmetics by non-elite populations has received comparatively little attention. Here, a cosmetic residue from a non-elite Han tomb at the Kongwangshan site on the southern margin of the North China Plain was analyzed using SEM-EDS, FTIR, XRD, GC-MS, HS-SPME-GC-MS, and GC-C-IRMS. The results indicate that the formulation consists of finely ground mica, plant-derived ingredients, and non-ruminant animal fat, likely of porcine origin. Integrating data on container typology, formulation composition, historical and archeological contexts, we postulate that cosmetics, once largely restricted to elite groups during the pre-Qin period, had become increasingly accessible to broader social strata by the Han Dynasty. This reflects wider economic development, expanding craft production, and changing consumption practices, providing new insights into the socio-economic dynamics of early imperial China.