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Urban transitions toward sufficiency-oriented circular post-consumer textile economies

Abstract

Wealthy cities are the primary hubs for excessive consumption and disposal of fashion and textiles. As such, cities have the power to support urban transitions toward more circular and sufficient consumption patterns. However, there is a lack of research and data around the topic of post-consumer textiles, which results in lagging policy and action at a city level. Here we aim to address this knowledge gap and offer a deeper understanding of what happens to clothes and textiles after consumers no longer want them, across nine Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development cities. Based on the analysis of policy documents, interviews and scientific and gray literature, the study finds similarities in terms of how the flows are managed across wealthy cities. The findings suggest that directing unwanted textiles toward exports makes the problem of growing post-consumer textile waste, a direct result of fashion overproduction and overconsumption, invisible to the public and to municipalities. This Article offers an important and timely analysis to inform action on post-consumer textiles and proposes a list of actionable policy recommendations for city governments to support the transition toward circular and sufficient urban textile systems.

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The authors confirm that policy document data generated or analyzed during this study are included in this published article, while the interview data that support the findings are available from the corresponding author upon reasonable request. The participants of this study did not give written consent for their data to be shared publicly.

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Acknowledgements

The work in Oslo was supported by the Research Council of Norway, project no. 318862, ‘Wasted textiles’.

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K.V.: conceptualization; data collection for Geneva; facilitation of collaborative writing; and writing the original draft, review and editing. Y.S.: conceptualization, data collection for Melbourne and writing the ‘Methodology’ section. I.M.: initiative to conduct comparative research across cities and data collection for Amsterdam, conceptualization, writing the ‘Methodology’ section and review and editing. K.L.: conceptualization, data collection for Oslo, review and editing and data collection for cross-national comparisons. C.E.H.: contribution to conceptual framework development, data collection for Manchester and writing and editing. S.A.: data collection for Manchester. S.I.A.: contribution to conceptual framework development and data collection for Berlin. H.L.: data collection for Luxembourg. A.L.T.: data collection for Luxembourg. K.D.: data collection for Toronto. S.W.: contribution to conceptual framework development and data collection for Toronto. I.J.: contribution to conceptual framework development and data collection for Austin.

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Correspondence to Katia Vladimirova.

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Vladimirova, K., Samie, Y., Maldini, I. et al. Urban transitions toward sufficiency-oriented circular post-consumer textile economies. Nat Cities 1, 769–779 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1038/s44284-024-00140-7

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