Rheological Characterization of Cosmetic Emulsions

Summary

Cosmetic emulsions are complex colloidal systems in which oil droplets are dispersed in an aqueous phase or vice versa, stabilised by surfactants or polymers. Rheological characterisation probes how these materials deform and flow under applied forces, revealing key attributes such as viscosity, viscoelasticity, yield stress and thixotropy. Such measurements inform formulation design, ensuring stability against creaming or coalescence, optimising sensory attributes like spreadability and skin feel, and predicting storage performance under varying temperatures and shear conditions. Advances in rotational and oscillatory rheometry, complemented by texture analysis, allow formulators to correlate macroscopic flow behaviour with microstructural features such as droplet size distribution, interfacial film strength and network formation by biopolymers. Global trends towards sustainable and surfactant-free formulations further drive innovation in rheological modifiers derived from natural polysaccharides or multifunctional polymers. Ultimately, understanding and controlling rheological properties underpins both consumer acceptance and the reliable delivery of active ingredients across a wide range of cosmetic products.

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Rheological Characterization of Cosmetic Emulsions publication trend

The graph below shows the total number of articles in rheological characterization of cosmetic emulsions across all publications each year (not limited to Nature Index journals).

Technical terms

Viscosity: Resistance of a fluid to flow, reflecting its internal friction under applied stress.

Shear-thinning: Non-Newtonian behaviour in which a material’s viscosity decreases as the rate of shear increases.

Viscoelasticity: Combined liquid-like and solid-like response of a material under deformation, characterised by storage and loss moduli.

Yield stress: Minimum stress level required to initiate irreversible flow in a structured fluid.

Thixotropy: Time-dependent reduction in viscosity under constant shear, with gradual viscosity recovery upon rest.

References

  1. Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2023).
  2. Characterization of Polysaccharidic Associations for Cosmetic Use: Rheology and Texture Analysis. Cosmetics (2021).
  3. Agarose Stearate-Carbomer940 as Stabilizer and Rheology Modifier for Surfactant-Free Cosmetic Formulations. Marine Drugs (2021).
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